A Congo Story

As a college student in Grahamstown, South Africa "when we were young" I used to gaze wistfully at a map of Africa and wonder what all the green/red/yellow coloured illustrations and colonial sounding names all meant and what was behind the facade?

On further inquiry, my interest was further engendered by that magnificient soldier and author of many books, including "The Jungle is Neutral" by Federick Spencer-Chapman DSO, an "explorer extraordanaire".

One country, the Belgian Congo, leapt from the pages! Huge rivers, volcanoes, jungles, bonobos, chimpanzee's, okapi, apes, kobs, unparalled birdlife, lion, elephant, hippo, rhino, pygmies ......!!! What did that all mean? Who were the early explorers? What were their routes? Da Brazza , Stanley, Goetzen to mention a few. Here was the cradle of mankind I was lead to believe...

The Congo was in a state of turmoil after the "winds of change" : it has been for over 40 years since. Tshombe, Patrice Lumumba, Mobuto jumped from the pages and the name of the "Congo Mercenary", Mike Hoare!

Earlier, UN secretary general "Dag" Hammersjold was shot down in mysterious circumstances.

What did it mean to a heady youngster whose eyes were firmly set north?

Summarising, a hugely immensly and interesting life in the British South Africa Police (BSAP) of Rhodesia with men that counted, and a less adventurous time in the South African forces who were dismally poor in assessing the revolutionary climate . Most of my service was spent working with self effacing, xenophobic staff officers (God help you if you were an ex Rhodesian!) , but was punctuated by the opportunity of conducting a few external adventures in neighbouring countries.

In between time, I was mixed up with experiences in de-mining operations in Mozambique followed by a stint in Kosovo, coupled with in-depth studies of 19th century warfare in Southern Africa which has lead me down many a byway and meeting amazingly, interesting people and sharing their adventures from around the world.

Then it came!

A call to the Congo. Consequently packing up overweight bags, I made my way to Gomo in the south east of the country. A wrecked town. Swarming with the flotsam and jetsam of war. Lava flows from a recent explosion on the banks of Lake Kivu, a former Belgian enclave with sadly neglected holiday homes, apathetic United Nations troops,and NGO's completely out of touch with reality.


The next day I was winging my way to Beni, in North Kivu province, in the hold of an Antinov crowded with locals, trussed up pigs, goats and other livestock & hanging onto the ropes of the net securing the baggage.No seats or cabin service here!

It was the most terrifying time of my life! With the cowlings shaking visibly over the turbo charged engines threatening to disintergrate at any moment, and climbing into the equatorial mists and tropical rain, I thought my time had come as I peered out through the only port hole f''rward. I could see nothing but forest clad peaks. We cleared them by inches. Russian pilots? No way. "I would walk in future if we ever landed safely" were my thoughts.

Notwithstanding. The trip was a nightmare.Three other planes went in last month (April) 64 had gone down in 2005 it was reported. We landed! The passengers whose whites of their eyes were evident in the interior gloom of the fuselage, burst into spontaneous applause.

Humping kit to the office (immigration?) which I thought I had cleared on entering the country from Rwanda, the authorities also decided to get into the act and I was relieved of more dollars. After all, they don't see Europeans up there every day, it scarcely being a tourist route. So why not make a couple of extra bucks? NGO's who arrive there irreguarly are willing to share the spoils of their government with underpaid officials.. Do they care?

The time spent up in the Congo for the next 6 weeks proved to be one of the most arduous and exhililrating weeks of my life. Interaction with mountain gorillas, illegal fishing fleets ; Lake Edward's fish population has been hoovered up ; also its hippo flotilla decimated. It had numbered in tens of thousands 10 years ago and but barely maintains a 100 beasts today on the Congo's shores.

Forest felling, the illegal trade of wild life, the debris of a 9 year old civil war which involved 9 countries (said to be the largest conflict since the end of the 2nd world war) including involvement of our dear friend and colleague Robert Mugabe. River patrols, night exercises, tornado's, the Rwenzori mountains, ("The mountains of the Moon") mosquitos, tstese fly, "creepie crawlies" & reptiles of every description complete the list of experiences.

The green splodge on the map which I had seen in the classroom now had meaning.

I had realised a dream. In a soldier's life there are no signposts and no final destination.

Where next? I will find a place, make no error!